Read through the instructions linked above and contact Rad Power Bikes Product Support if you have questions. If you are not confident in your ability to successfully and safely perform all steps, we recommend having the work performed by a local, certified, and reputable bike mechanic.
1. Gather the tools and parts needed: a 4 mm Allen wrench, Phillips head screwdriver, a short Phillips head screwdriver, a flat head screwdriver, flat side cutters, four replacement zip ties, and the replacement controller.
2. Power off the bike. Ensure the bike is in the off position. Open the quick release lever on the seat tube and remove the seat. Use the key to unlock the battery and then use both hands to remove the battery from the mounting tray. Once removed, press and hold the “MODE” button on the LCD Display Remote until the display remains off for about two seconds (it may flash on briefly). This ensures the power is fully discharged from the bike and it is safe to work on.
3. Unbolt the battery mounting tray. Use a 4 mm Allen wrench to remove the three bolts holding the battery mounting tray to the seat tube of the frame and set aside. Angle the mounting tray away from the seat tube to allow access to the controller mounting bolts.
4. Unscrew the controller mounting bolts. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to back out the controller mounting bolts on the top mounting bracket. Use a short Phillips head screwdriver to more easily access the lower mounting bolts.
5. Remove the controller zip ties. Pass the controller out from between the seat tube and fender. Use flat side cutters to snip the zip ties holding the controller’s wires to the frame and bundles together.
Use caution to snip only the relevant zip ties and avoid damage to cables, housing, and painted surfaces.
6. Disconnect the wiring harness connector. The wiring harness connector is located partially inside the frame. Turn the handlebar all the way to the right to provide enough slack to pull out of the cable opening in the frame, at the bottom of the downtube. Then pull gently on the wire to pull the connector out of the cable opening.
Note: Pull directly on the connector body (and not on the cable) whenever possible.
If needed, use a flat head screwdriver to carefully unseat the grommet on the end of the cable opening. This will effectively widen the cable opening at the end of the downtube and can make it easier to pull out the wiring harness connector.
7. Locate the new controller. Locate the new controller and notice connectors, labeled below
8. Install the wiring harness connector. Pass the wiring harness connector (black with 10 pins) and cable down through the opening between the chainstays, seat tube, and fender. Align the internal pins and notches, external arrows, and carefully press the connector ends directly together without twisting to fully seat the connection. Push the fully seated connector through the grommet/cable opening at the downtube end. Turn the handlebar to the left, so the wheel is pointing directly forward, which will take up slack and help place the connector in the correct location inside the downtube. If the grommet at the downtube end was removed, ensure the wiring harness connector passes through the grommet. To reinstall, squeeze the grommet onto one side of the cable opening at a time. If needed, use a flat head screwdriver to carefully seat the grommet fully.
9. Connect the motor connector. Pass the motor connector (black with three large pins) through the opening between the chainstays, seat tube, and fender. Align the internal pins and notches, external arrows, and carefully press the connector ends directly together without twisting to fully seat the connection.
10. Connect the PAS sensor and taillight connectors. Pass the PAS sensor connector (yellow with two pins) and the taillight connector (blue with four pins) through the opening between the chainstays, seat tube, and fender. Align the internal pins and notches, external arrows, and carefully press the connector ends directly together without twisting to fully seat the connection.
11. Install replacement zip ties. Use replacement zip ties to secure the controller cables in a bundle below the controller and to attach the motor cable to the chainstay at the cable guide and around the motor connector housing. Ensure the zip tie also goes around the shifter cable on the inside of the chainstay to keep both away from the wheel. Use flat side cutters to snip off zip tie excess.
12. Install the new controller. Place the controller into position between the seat tube and the fender. Carefully thread each of the four mounting bolts. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to tighten the top mounting bolts and a short Phillips head screwdriver to easily access and tighten the bottom bolts. Tighten all bolts evenly. Ensure the controller is secure and cannot move.
13. Bolt the battery tray to the seat tube. Use a 4 mm Allen wrench to re-install the three battery mounting tray bolts. Test the re-installed battery tray for secure attachment; if the tray can move in any direction, re-center and tighten down the bolts to prevent any movement.
Note: Tighten down the battery tray mounting bolts until there is no movement in any direction.
14. Reinstall the battery.
15. Test the bike for safe operation. Mount the bike onto a bike maintenance stand, power the bike ON, test all electrical and mechanical components for safe and proper operation, and have the bike inspected for safety by a certified, reputable bike mechanic.
16. Ride rad!
For questions or assistance, please contact Rad Power Bikes Product Support by email to email@example.com or by phone to (800) 939-0310 x 2.