To start, both the RadRover and Radmini process is nearly identical, but here I’ve used a RadRover to show the process a little better on a bigger bike.
First, if you’re able to turn the bike upside down, it will make the removal and reinstallation much easier!
If you are going to turn it upside down, you’ll want to prop the handlebars up on something to prevent the screen and controls on the handlebars from being damaged. We’ve included a picture to show this:
Next, we’ll need a few tools for this process, so we’ll get those all lined up first. You’ll need
- 18mm crescent wrench
- Small snips to cut zip ties
- Philips head screwdriver
First thing you’ll want to do is locate the motor connection, on the right side of the bike (left, if upside down), and clip the zip tie indicated here.
Then unplug that motor connector and thread it out through the derailleur hanger.
Next, we’ll pull the rubber caps off the axle nuts on both sides, the one on the motor connection side won’t come all the way off, it will just slide down to the connector end.
On both sides, loosen the axle nut with your 18mm wrench and remove each as much as possible. The nut on the wire side again will not come all the way off, but thread it fully off the axle, leaving both sides as shown below:
At this time, take note of the teardrop shaped washer on the brake side, with the philips screw in it:
This is called a torque arm, and will need to go back onto the bike exactly how you found it before, so keep it in a safe place! You can undo this screw now, and remove the screw and torque arm from the axle.
Once you’ve removed the axle nuts and torque arm, you will be able to pull up on the rear wheel and remove it from the bike. It may be a little tight if you’ve never removed the wheel before, but it will come off! Rocking the wheel side to side may help by dislodging one side of the axle at a time.
At this time, you’re free to either swap in the new wheel, replace a tire, or do whatever it was that you needed to remove the wheel for.
Once you need to put the wheel back on, you may want to enlist an extra hand or two as lining up the chain can be somewhat tricky.
You’ll want to pull the derailleur arm all the way up and slide in the axle as shown here
I find it easiest to line the chain up with the smallest sprocket on the rear wheel, then slowly lower the wheel down in this position until you’ve got the axle lined up with the rear dropouts.
You’ll notice that the rear axle is not completely round, and the flat sides of the axle will slot against the sides of the dropouts. The washers on both sides of the axle that have a protrusion, called torque washers, will fit into the outside of the dropouts as well, shown here:
Once you’ve got the axle completely seated into the frame, you can re-attach the torque arm on the brake side axle, and re-tighten both axle nuts. You can also re-zip tie the motor cable to its mounting point, and slide the rubber axle nut covers back in place.
Make sure that the axle nuts are tightened down to 40-45 Newton Meters. This should be done with a torque wrench, as improperly torquing the axle nuts could allow the rear wheel to come loose while riding. If you have any questions regarding this step, please contact Technical Support.
If you have any trouble getting the wheel back into the bike completely, or if you have questions about specific parts of the process, contact us and we’ll be happy to help!