First, if you’re able to turn the bike upside down, it will make the removal and reinstallation much easier!
If you are going to turn it upside down, you’ll want to prop the handlebars up on something to prevent the screen and controls on the handlebars from being damaged. We’ve included a picture to show this:
Next, we’ll need a few tools for this process, so we’ll get those all lined up first. You’ll need
- 15mm crescent or deep socket wrench
- Small snips to cut zip ties
First thing you’ll want to do is locate the motor connection, on the left side of the bike (the same side as the brake disks), and clip the zip tie to free the wire shown in this picture.
Then unplug the motor connector and thread it out from between the frame and splash guard.
Next, we’ll note the order of the nuts and washers on either side of the axle, as they’ll need to go back in place exactly as they are now.
On both sides, loosen the axle nut with your 15mm wrench and remove each along with the outside washers, keeping them in order. Each side of the axle will look like this, once removed from the bike:
Once you’ve removed the axle nuts, you will be able to pull up and forward on the rear wheel and remove it from the bike. It may be a little tight if you’ve never removed the wheel before, but it will come off! One thing that can help is raising the kickstand to vertical, to give you a little extra room.
At this time, you’re free to either swap in the new wheel, replace a tire, or take care of any necessary maintenance on the rear wheel.
Once you're ready to put the wheel back on, you may want to enlist an extra pair of hands, as lining up the chain can be somewhat tricky.
Pull the derailleur arm all the way up, and slide in the axle as shown here
Line the chain up with the smallest sprocket on the rear wheel, then slowly lower the wheel down in this position until you’ve got the axle lined up with the rear dropouts. You’ll need to make sure the torque washers are pressed all the way up against the inside of the axle, to make sure they fit between the dropouts.
Once you’ve got the axle completely seated into the frame as shown above, You can go ahead and replaces the washers and re-tighten both axle nuts. You can also re-zip tie the motor cable to its mounting point, making sure the connection is held securely in place.
Make sure that the axle nuts are tightened down to 40-45 Newton Meters. This should be done with a torque wrench, as improperly torquing the axle nuts could allow the rear wheel to come loose while riding. If you have any questions regarding this step, please contact Technical Support.
If you have any trouble getting the wheel back into the bike completely, or if you have questions about specific parts of the process, contact us and we’ll be happy to help!